How It Works: Porsche PDK

NOTE:  

• If you want to skip all the boring gearhead stuff and get right to the possible upgrade solutions, jump HERE (Part 3 coming soon!)
• You may also want to check-out Part 1

Part 2

First, full disclosure:  I am not a Porsche technician, and I am not an Engineer.  I just like to think like one!  So my description of the "inner-workings" of the Porsche Doppelkupplung or PDK transmission are more of a component perspective and reflective of my own technical knowledge, taking a shot at describing how the various parts work together.  Feel free to disagree, or point out what I've missed, by commenting below!  I am sure there are much more technically details, accurate descriptions than what I attempt here -- but the average person out there should be able to follow-along.

Brief history of the PDK:  As many Porsche fans know, P-cars have offered automatic and semi-automatic transmissions over the years.  Going back to the late 1960's, the first "clutchless automatic" Porsche offered is known as the "Sportomatic."  This was an option on cars through about 1970...  It wasn't until 1990 that Porsche offered a new generation of transmission known as the "Tiptronic." This was a more successful option, and the innovation was the electronic control the driver had over the transmission.

In 2009 Porsche released the Porsche Doppelkupplung, or PDK transmission.  For a brief demonstration of how it works, enjoy the following video:

While that animation does a great job "showing" you how the dual-clutch setup auto-magically works, it DOESN'T talk at all about the component relationships - and most importantly, the how do you tell the transmission what you want from it???  It's all fine and dandy that the technology is capable of pre-selecting gears and taking inputs from the ECU and stability management systems -- but what about input from the driver?  That's what we'll focus on in the rest of this post.

And, by the way, "Doppelkupplung" translates from German to English as "two-clutches!"

PDK "System" of Components:

From a humanoid perspective, there are really three, arguably five components to the transmission system:

1. The driver compartment center console PDK selector lever (aka "the human");
2. The Transmission Control Unit (TCU);
3. The PDK transmission;
4. and, the engine control unit or ECU, and ABS/PSM controller -- to optimize shift strategy and match engine revs during shifting;

Here is an illustration of the driver-compartment PDK selector from the Porsche PET catalog:

Looking at the illustration, you can see that there is a physical cable that will transmit selector position or activity to the transmission.

And an illustration of the TCU location (upper left corner, #6 shown next to the mounting bracket or cage):

#6 in this diagram is the control unit

For reference, since that illustration is so awful and includes a bunch of other unrelated control units, here is a photograph of an actual TCU:

Control Unit from a 991

991 Control Unit showing connectors

The transmission control unit is located in the passenger compartment, in the rear seating area under the seat cushions ahead of the engine bay.

And finally, here is a PET diagram showing the PDK transmission and related parts:

PDK transmission parts

#22 in the above illustration is the connection point between the PDK selector lever in the cabin, and the transmission.  The cable (#6 in previous illustration) connects here, and transmits the selector position or action (in the case of manually up-or-down-shifting) to the transmission.

Here are some photographs of  a PDK transmission out of a 991 C4S (photos from LADismantlers):

PDK Side View

PDK clutch housing

Of course, the TCU takes input not only from the driver, but also from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) as well as data from the ABS/PSM (Porsche Stability Management) systems as well.

Now that we've covered the basic components of the system, let's consider the end-to-end system of  a driver controlling the transmission...

At the most basic level, the driver selects a driving mode upon starting-up the car.  Settings include full-automatic in base or sport modes, and in cars equipped with Sport Chrono option an additional Sport Plus mode.  Each selection changes the shifting behavior of the transmission (and in some cases other features of the car, such as the exhaust valves or engine mounts....).

How?  The driver signals a choice of mode, gear, and so on by moving the PDK lever.  This action transmits a signal to the transmission control unit (described above), which in turn communicates directly to the transmission.  How quickly the choice is executed is determined by the selected mode, in other words what  software "mapping" is selected.  In some cases with Sport and Sport + modes shifts up and down the gearing range are executed more rapidly.  There is also apparently a version of the PDK in the GT3 991 cars that has been called PDK+ and which comes from the factory with gear change mappings in the TCU that are faster than the GTS, S and base 991 Carrera's.

So that's it in a very simple summary.  The driver signals a mode and gear selection through the PDK lever, through a cable that runs to the TCU under the rear seating area, which in turn communicates with the PDK.

In Part 3 we will go into description of what options PDK owners have to increase the performance of their 911 by making modifications or upgrades to the transmission.....

PART 3 (coming soon!)

Plastidip Removal from Porsche Wheel - NO CHEMICALS!

Earlier this year I decided to switch the color of my wheels back to the original platinum satin finish that the car came with.  As you may know from my previous posts and videos (check out my You Tube channel:  GTSilver for this and many other Porsche DIY videos!) I sprayed my factory wheels with matte black Plastidip a while back.  Absolutely loved it!

So I captured the 'dip removal process.  In a previous post (check it out:  http://plenums.blogspot.com/2015/12/plastidip-removal-991-c4s-rear-wheel.html  I did a "refinish" of one of the wheels that needed touch-up after a tire swap, but in that case I tried couple of different techniques.  This time, I decided to forgo the chemicals and attempt a full removal with just my fingers / elbow grease!

Getting right to it, here is the video, out on my YT channel GTSilver:

I say it throughout the video, and I'll repeat it again here:  the amount of effort to remove the dip from a wheel is directly proportional to how thick and evenly you applied the spray in the first case.

Anyway -- thanks for visiting!  Please subscribe to my email update list, as well as my You Tube channel GTSilver!

Exotic Cars Carrying Christmas Trees!

Seeing a lot of holiday "spirit" pictures flowing through my twitter and instagram accounts lately -- the one's really catching my attention are the ones with sports, exotic and downright ultra-rare cars with trees strapped to the roof!  In the spirit of spreading the christmas cheer, thought I'd put some of my favorites up on the Blog....

First, this is absolutely one of my favorites -- not because this is a $$Million(s) valued Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta SWB but because it appears the owner has the balls to place the tree on the roof WITHOUT Padding!  Now that takes a big set!

(from carcrushing.com)

And while on the theme of ultra-rare, ultra-expensive Ferraris, how about this one:

(from carcrushing.com)

But let's get back to reality - and modern cars....  This is one of an Audi R8 "sled"

(@audidaily on Twitter)

At least in that one, they had the sense to put something on the roof to protect the paint!

And last but not least, here is an ultraviolet Porsche 991 GT3 RS!

(autoevolution.com)

If you like these, or have some of your own favorites, comment below and subscribe to my feed!  Thanks!

A Sick 3D Drawing of the DDE TireSlayer 458!

Incredible video capturing creation of a 3D drawing of the Daily Driven Exotics Ferrari 458 GT3 tire slayer! The finished 3D art is sick!  The artist Stefan Pabst makes his drawings and paintings come to life right before your eyes!  

I've been following Damon / Daily Driven Exotics for a while now, and this is one of my favorite posts to his You Tube channel!  This is even more poignant considering this particular Ferrari was totaled not long ago in an accident!

Check out the the artists' site, and follow DDE as well!

Stefan Pabst on facebook https://www.facebook.com/PortraitmalerPabst?ref=hl

Daily Driven Exotics You Tube Channel   https://www.youtube.com/user/DailyDrivenExotics

This is unreal!

Can You Upgrade the Porsche 991 PDK Transmission???

NOTE:  

• If you are only interested in how the PDK works, you can jump to Part 2
• If you want to skip all the boring stuff and get right to the possible upgrade solutions, you'll have to wait until I publish Part 3!

PART 1

Recently I've been participating in a discussion thread on Rennlist 991 forum that I found interesting, and wanted to capture more details -- and additional resources -- for the blog.  The thread started with question from one member about whether it would be possible to change the + / - or up-shift / down-shift direction of the PDK selector.  For some reason, Porsche had decided that despite what nearly all other brands out there are doing, and even the 991 TT and GT3/GT3RS models have, that the PDK selector would work in opposite.  Meaning, the direction you push the PDK lever is "opposite" for upshifts and downshifts in the 991.1 model line (except for the more exclusive versions listed above).  Why is a great question, and I would love to hear from Porsche gear-heads as to what the reason was to do this... but perhaps we will never know!

Also note that (and I can't prove this at the moment) in the case of the GT3 models, the PDK software settings are more "aggressive" than the other lesser 991 models.  This may also be the case with the RS, and TT models.  What is important to consider here is that as far as I understand (from the Porsche sales, technical guides, etc.) ALL of the PDK transmissions (including the exclusive models) are identically configured!  Meaning, they all have the same mechanical specifications and gearing ratios, whether you have the base 991.1 3.4L or the 991 TT.  Again, I may need to prove this somehow, but at this moment I would argue that being identical mechanically, the only real difference between say a GT3 and an S model PDK transmission is software or mapping (I am not including the selector-lever in center console in this point -- yes, I know the + / - labeling is different, and might say "GT3" or "Turbo"!).

So on that note the discussion thread on Rennlist explored the possibility of reprogramming, and what that might involve.  An upgrade of sorts....  Also considered was a physical parts swap between a 991.1 with the "backwards" selector and something like a GT3 or 991.2 model PDK.

All of the discussion and speculation got me thinking -- what are the possible upgrade options for owners of PDK equipped cars?  In subsequent posts, we'll address this question at a high-level.  But, before we get into solution options, let's take a closer look at the PDK transmission, what components are involved, and how it all works....

Part 2:  How the PDK Works 

Porsche 991 Targa 4S Techart!

Ok, so this is nothing new -- but I just came across the following pictures and video of a very "green" 991 Targa GTS 4 that I think is very special.  The following is from a motor show back in 2014.  Not only is this particular Targa a vivid green color, but it has been styled by Techart as well.   Not for everyone I am sure.  But for me, the total package just seems to "work."

Enjoy the video...

Posted by Test Drive Freak on YouTube

I am still considering my next P-car, and really like the duality of the Targa....  I am not a fan of the cabs, and LOVE the coupe.  But do like moments of "topless" fun! My only concern is the complexity and dependability of that crazy roof mechanism.  May be a long-term money-pit if things go south.

What do you think?  Please comment below....

How to Remove a Porsche 991 Rear Spoiler

Following are the steps necessary to remove the "standard" rear active spoiler on a Porsche 991.  You can also remove just the "upper cover" or painted surface if you don't need to remove the entire wing assembly with motor.  Most often 991 owners are removing the entire assembly to install a new "ducktail" or sport design rear spoiler.

The tools you'll need are simple -- some torx bits / screwdrivers, and if you want to protect any surfaces from risk of scratches, some painters tape.

Before you begin, raise the spoiler.

To begin removal, you'll need to

1. Remove tail lights
2. Remove fan shroud / cover from engine

Next, on the right / passenger side (LHD vehicles) remove the inner trim cover by pulling up gently, and disengage the emergency release cable.  The cover is a black plastic part that covers the screws you'll need to remove. Check that you haven't damaged any of the clips that hold the trim pieces in place.

On the left or driver-side, remove the upper part of the oil filler neck.  There is a fastening screw that you need to remove -- it is visible on the side closest to the center of the engine bay.  You will have to remove the coolant cap as well, and to keep anything from falling-down into the coolant filler put a piece of tape over the opening.

Next, remove the fastening screws on the support plates that are at the base of the active wing extension arms.  I believe there are 2 T-45 screws at each side.

Remove the fastening screws running along the top edge of the rear apron / bumper cover.  These must be removed to release the spoiler assembly.

Release the electrical plug connection for the rear spoiler motor.  Pull it off completely.  The connection is in the engine bay over on the right  or passenger side.

The rear spoiler assembly is now disconnected and ready for removal. You can do the next step by yourself, but I would recommend having a helper to be sure not to drop, scratch or damage anything as you pull the assembly out of the car.

To remove the spoiler assembly, tilt it in the direction of the rear bumper cover, then forwards towards you as shown in the following illustration:

NOTE:  There is a guide pin on each side that you need to clear -- and when reinstalling (if that is what you will do) you must seat the spoiler assembly into place using the guide pin.

And that is it!  You now have the rear spoiler with motor etc removed from the car.

I haven't taken any pictures of my own, so if you complete this project and would like to contribute to this DIY guide, please send any pictures to me and I'll add them to this post....  Thanks!

For reference:

• Fastening screw securing rear spoiler to rear apron tightening torque 3.2 Nm (2 ftlb.) +/-0.5 Nm (+/-0.5 ftlb.) 
• Fastening screw securing support plate to body. Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.)

Porsche 991: Bleeding Brake System

And our last brake service post is a general how-to bleed the brake system on a Porsche 991....  If you missed 'em, there are two other guides available (all based on my experience with the official Porsche Work Manuals....).

Checking Brake Fluid

Flushing Brake Fluid (replacing)

Bleeding Brake Fluid

First, some important Notes:

• Observe brake fluid quality. 
• Use only new DOT 4 brake fluid. 
• This brake fluid is available under the following part numbers: Quantity supplied: 1 litre = 000.043.203.66; 30 litres = 000.043.203.67. 
• There are two bleeder valves on each brake caliper. Brake fluid must be drained at both bleeder valves. 
• Observe specified sequence: Bleed the outer bleeder valve on each caliper first.

1.  Place cover in service position.

• Unclip the cover at the left and right, lift it up and engage the yellow support in the luggage compartment lid ­1­ to secure it.

  

  Place protective cover in service position

2.  Open the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, which is located on drivers side of car.

3.  Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir.

• Switch on the bleeding device. Bleeding pressure is approx. 2.0 bar.

  

  Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir

3. Continue the following bleeding procedures at the brake calipers (no prescribed sequence, but note sequence of bleeding from outside valve first, then inside valve...).

• Use a transparent hose and a collecting bottle to check the escaping brake fluid for cleanliness, absence of air bubbles and to determine the amount of brake fluid used.  The Porsche manuals don't indicate any specific time for bleeding.
• Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble-­free brake fluid emerges.
• NOTE:  Continuously pump the brake pedal slowly during the bleeding process (second mechanic required).

4.  Only when replacing the hydraulic unit: Bleed the secondary circuit using PIWIS Tester II 9818. Otherwise, continue with the concluding steps (Steps 5 and 6).

• Select >>PSM>>Maintenance/repairs>>Bleeding hydraulic unit<< in the control unit overview.  The four wheel brakes are bled alternately (as per Tester display).
• Remove vent hoses and tighten bleeder valves to 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.).
• Remove PIWIS Tester II.

5.  Switch off the bleeding device and remove the adapter at the brake fluid reservoir.

6.  Visually check the brake fluid level.  The brake fluid level must be between the MIN and MAX markings.  Correct the brake fluid level if necessary.

Min / Max levels on fluid reservoir

7. Fit cover over the brake fluid reservoir (move out of service position).

The above details and illustrations are from the official Porsche Work Manuals for the 991 platform.

In this case the document you should obtain is "WM 470107 Bleeding the brake system"

Porsche 991: Checking Brake Fluid

This is first in a short series of posts covering brake fluid service procedures for the Porsche 991 model line...

Checking Brake Fluid

Flushing Brake Fluid (replacing)

Bleeding Brake Fluid

All of the procedures I cover follow the official Porsche NA Work Manuals, to which I provide reference with each post.

So let's get on with it!

First up is a very basic How to Check your brake fluid level in the 991.

NOTE:

• The brake fluid level must not exceed the MAX marking.
• Check brake fluid quality. Use only new DOT 4 brake fluid.
• Brake fluid can be ordered using the Porsche Electronic Parts Catalogue (PET).
• The brake fluid reservoir is located under the cover that is fitted over the brake components (brake booster, brake master cylinder and hydraulic unit)

The brake fluid level can be checked through the opening in the cover (arrow) just forward of the (LHD) drivers position.

The brake fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX markings (shown below) which are marked on the sides of the brake fluid reservoir.

fff

1.  If the brake fluid level has to be corrected, move the protective plastic cover  as shown below into the service position to expose the brake fluid reservoir.

     1.1  Lift up the cover and engage the yellow support in the luggage compartment lid.

2.  Correct the brake fluid level (see post Flushing Brake Fluid).

3.  The cover is fitted in reverse order. 

The above details and illustrations are from the official Porsche Work Manuals for the 991 platform.  In this case the document you should obtain is "WM 470801 Checking brake fluid level"

Porsche 991: Flushing Brake Fluid (replacing)

This is my second blog post in a short series covering brake fluid service procedures for the Porsche 991 model line...

Checking Brake Fluid

Flushing Brake Fluid (replacing)

Bleeding Brake Fluid

All of the procedures I cover in this series follow the official Porsche NA Work Manuals, to which I provide reference with each post.

You don't need to take the wheels off, or jack-up the car...  BUT, getting to the inner bleeder valves will be very tricky and I would highly recommend removing the wheels.  In my case, I chose to get the car up on stands and remove all the wheels.  This way as I begin bleeding I can move from caliper to caliper without having to stop and remove each wheel along the way.  My own preference, YMMV and I am sure some are very content with other ways of doing a brake fluid flush....

So here is my car up on stands:

So let's get on with it!

If you are planning to replace the brake fluid in your 991, you should do the following....
1.  Place cover in service position.

     1.1  Unclip the cover at the left and right, lift it up and engage the yellow support in the luggage                 compartment lid -1- .

Open Servic

2.  Open the cap on the reservoir, which is located on the driver-side under the service cover.
3.  Connect a bleeding device to the brake fluid reservoir.
4.  Switch on the bleeding device. Pressure when changing brake fluid should be ~ 2.0 bar (29 psi).

Connect Bleeding Device

NOTE:

• Check brake fluid quality. Use only new DOT 4 brake fluid. 
• Brake fluid can be ordered using the Porsche Electronic Parts Catalogue (PET). 
• There are two bleeder valves on each brake caliper. Brake fluid must be drained at both bleeder valves.   

NOTE:   The official WM from Porsche doesn't indicate any sequence or order to which (inner or outer) bleeder valve to start with -- just that you need to drain from BOTH.

5.  Continue to change the brake fluid at the brake calipers (no prescribed sequence, although some would suggest that you start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and work "towards" it...).

• Use a transparent hose and a collecting bottle to check the escaping brake fluid for cleanliness, absence of air bubbles and to determine the amount of brake fluid used.
• Drain brake fluid at both bleeder valves on each brake caliper. Per brake caliper: → Change brake fluid (on each wheel): approx. 250 cm3
• The shop manual doesn't indicate any amount of time to let bleed, or anything like that.  Just that you should capture the old fluid at each wheel, measure, and when all done replace with same amount (roughly).

6.  After fluid no longer flows tighten bleeder valves to the stipulated tightening torque and remove bleeder hoses. Tightening torque 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Move to next wheel.... and when done all 4,

7.  Switch off the bleeding device and remove the adapter at the reservoir.

• Visually check the brake fluid level.  The brake fluid level must be between the MIN and MAX markings. Correct the brake fluid level if necessary.

6. Fit cover over the brake fluid reservoir (move out of service position).

The above details and illustrations are from the official Porsche Work Manuals for the 991 platform.

In this case the document you should obtain is "WM 470855 Changing brake fluid"

Porsche 991 COV & Vacuum Lines Overview

UPDATE:  I'm adding links to couple of documents from Porsche specific to the article below....

WM 2400IN

COV Replacement Bulletin (2015)

I've come across soooooo many posts online asking questions about vacuum lines, exhaust valves, change-over valves and related that I thought I'd put together an overview with some pictures and illustrations....

Probably the 2 most prevalent discussions about the vacuum system in the 991 are centered on Change Over Valves (COVs), and periodic "failures" that 991 owners have reported (myself included!).  Also keep in mind that the S cars, and cars with Porsche Sports Exhaust (PSE) rely on COVs to open-and-close the exhaust valving.

Here is a link to one of the Rennlist 991 conversation threads that covers COV failures / replacements:  "Heater quit working again"  Search Rennlist, as well as the 6Speedonline boards, for more details....

Here is an illustration and picture of the COV part:

1. Fresh Air Connection
2. Vacuum Line for the Actuator
3. Vacuum Connection

Here's a pic as posted on Rennlist 991 forums by member STG:

As you can see in this picture, the part # is clearly visible imprinted on the side of the device.

Schematic, showing the basic relationship of each COV and vacuum...

The above schematic is straight from the official Porsche Service Information Book, and posted to 6SpeedOnline forums by member SM_ATL.  I'll get more into the vacuum line routing later in this post.

As for how many COVs are on a 991 (MY2012.5 through MY 2016), # ranges from 7 to 10 per below:

1. Air Cleaner Flap
2. Acoustic Simulator
3. Heater Shut-Off Valve
4. Exhaust Flaps
5. Coolant Shut-Off Valve on Engine Bypass Circuit
6. Tuning Flap
7. Shut-Off Valve on Heat Exchanger for Gear Wheel Set Oil
8. Shut-Off Valve for Clutch Fluid Heat Exchanger (PDK ONLY)
9. Tuning Flap (cars with full X-51 Power Kit ONLY)
10. Tuning Flap (cars with full X-51 Power Kit ONLY)

#9 and 10 are not a mistake on my part.... cars with X-51 option have multiple tuning flaps apparently. 

And here is an illustration from Porsche with locations of each of the COVs listed above:

The most common complaints of COV failures are the Exhaust Flaps and  Heater Shut-Off Valve.  As a 991 owner I've experienced multiple failures of both....!

Here are some vacuum line routing illustrations:

For PDK cars:

For MT cars:

Exhaust Flap line routing....

In the above, the top part of the picture is the 3.8 standard exhaust, whereas the bottom-half of the picture is for the 991 with PSE option.

Based on feedback from nearly all who've posted to 991 enthusiast forums on the topic of COV failures, it seems that no matter what the root cause, the service departments at dealers will NOT proactively replace COVs that haven't failed yet.  There have been multiple part # revisions, perhaps indicating attempts at mitigate future failures -- but other than a brief campaign for the earliest MY 2012 991s there has NOT been any recall or service bulletins to replace suspect parts.  The SB that I refer to here is #TI-64-12 and NHTSA ID #10048760 if you'd like to look it up.

If you'd like to replace yourself, know that there isn't a WM specific to the procedure.  However, there is WM 2400IN, which provides a lot of good pictures and location detail.  

I'll continue to compile other COV resources, and post updates from time-to-time.  Contact me, or comment below, if you have questions or want to share any other experiences of your own!  Thanks!

Porsche 991 Sport Design / Aerokit Cup Installation Guides

I've answered more than a few questions over the past year or two regarding DIY removal of the Porsche 991 front bumper cover (likely due to this:  991 Front Bumper Cover Removal Part 1).  In my DIYs, I've illustrated various aspects of the "standard" or non-Sport Design / Aerokit Cup front cover.  More recently, I've had an increasing number of questions about how to install optional bumper covers, such as the Aerokit Cup or Sport Design package, as a replacement for the "standard" cover.

While I don't have my own DIY story or content, I do happen to have a copy of the official Porsche NA installation manuals for the following:

Sport Design Front Apron

991 Aerokit Cup

991 Sport Design Package

I hope these help someone out!  Please let me know....

Note:  The docs are PDFs up on Google Drive -- let me know if you have any issues accessing.  These are copies I paid for, so you'll see my username and email address on each page...  Please don't SPAM me!

Have fun, and please let me know how your project turns-out!

Cheers,
Plenum

Porsche 991 Exterior Trim: Rear Diffuser Removal

Recently was asked (within another DIY posting) if there were any guides to removing the diffuser trim pieces from the lower rear of the 991 rear bumper cover....  So I am providing the following DIY guide for those that want to remove the trim parts -- which by default come in matte black plastic from the factory -- for painting, replacement/repair, or to have them custom-painted.

Note that there is an official PCNA Work Manual (WM) for this (WM 636819) procedure, and my guide (along with all illustrations) is based on the instructions provided by that document.

The Porsche official term for the part we are referring to as the diffuser is "rear skirt."  Here is an illustration of the part location:

Rear Diffuser location highlighted in dark blue

There are officially (ie WM 636819) three steps involved:

1) Remove both R and L "Tailpipe Shield Covers";
2) Remove bottom "retaining strip";
3) and, Remove "Rear Skirt".

In the WM the precondition is to remove the entire rear apron (or "bumper cover") but it isn't 100% necessary to do so.... I've seen 991 forum member posts where removal of the "diffuser" happened with the apron still on the car. YMMV.

STEP 1:  Use a flat-head screwdriver or trim tool to release the shield cover by working around the perimeter of the part - I believe there are 5 tabs. You should be able to just pry and pull to release.

STEP 2:  In the second case, and I think personally this is something others have been able to avoid -- there are at least (2) maybe more rivets that the official WM indicates should be "drilled-out" -- meaning they must be replaced if you are reusing the rear skirt parts.

STEP 3:  Remove the rear skirt  by pulling hard while using a screwdriver / pry tool to release the 14 or so tabs that run along the length of the trim piece.

Installation is opposite of the steps outlined here.

Porsche 991 Interior Trim: Fuse Panel Trim Removal

UPDATE:  Adding pictures and some additional description of the parts and how they connect to the car...  Many thanks to Rennlist member RoWa for the additional material!

Trying to help-out a fellow 991 owner...  I was asked about how the footwell trim piece that surrounds the fuse panel attaches.  Apparently the owner has a loose trim piece and although can feel that there is a connection point loose, isn't sure how to repair.

Here is a parts diagram showing the parts:

In particular, we are focused on parts identified in this diagram as #'s 5, 6, 7, and 8.

Part #'s and descriptions  (always check your part #'s with your service dept or someplace online like SunCoast, as I've now seen couple of different #'s for the following):

(5) 991 555 101 01  Lining Fusebox (you need to add your color code for interior color, which for example in my case is black, or A75)

(6) 999 507 533 02 Clamp
(7) 999 507 533 01 Spring Clamp

(8)  991 555 622 02 Lid Lining Fusebox

Again, for each of the colored parts you will need to indicate your interior color code.  Additionally, in this case there are both Right and Left-side parts, so you'll also need to indicate /R  /L with part # as they don't have separate #'s.

Thanks to Rennlist member RoWa, we now know that in fact the trim panel surrounding the fuse box is secured to the car with a number of small tabs and velcro.  Per RoWa....

"The left side has fairly standard trim mounts. The right side is secured with 2 two-sided velcro-like fastners. One side of the velco fastner is mounted on the frame of the car, the other side, mounted on a circular plastic disc, is attached to the fuse panel trim. These discs, mounted on the fuse panel trim, are removable from it - they just pop off."

Following are some pics RoWa provides to help understand how the part attaches.  NOTE that in this case all parts are from the driver's-side footwell panel.  Referring to right vs left side of part means closer to door vs closer to footrest.  Assume on right-hand side of car the part is simply reversed.

Entire trim piece with door attached  viewed from behind, noting connection points on both sides.

Closer look at the "left-side" connectors w/velcro.

So in the case where the (5) trim lining the fusebox appears "loose" or has come-off, you'll want to focus on the connection points indicated above.

Porsche 991 Interior: Removing upper part of centre console cover ­PDK

Just a quick post to help a fellow 991-owner out...  I've previously posted DIY about removing (most) of the center console trim (for the purpose of removing the switch panel, as well as PCM head unit). What I didn't cover was how to remove the 991 PDK shift knob or the trim piece directly around the base of the PDK.

So, without further boring dialog, here goes...

1. Remove the center console side trim pieces.  You don't need to remove the switch panel directly below the selector trim piece, but you should remove at least the side panels and console trim.  If you do remove the switch panel, it just gives you that much better access to the plug for the hazard light switch and leverage to pull up....  For details, see my other DIY post for center console trim at 2014 Porsche 991 Center Console Trim PanelRemoval


2. Remove the PDK selector knob.


• At the base of the PDK selector shaft, there is a locking ring -- turn that to the right. MacCarbon has a decent DIY for replacing the selector knob (with their CF version) and suggest you might need to put some blue masking tape on the ring to gain additional grip.  


•  Push the knob button at the top forward and pull upwards, releasing it from the selector shaft....


3. Remove the upper part of center console...  This is the trim around the selector "gate" which includes the model designation label and hazard / locking buttons.  Note that this is a single trim piece and will be lifted-off over the gear selector shaft.


• Unclip cover by pulling it up ­in the direction of the arrows in this picture:





• Lift up the cover at the front so that you can easily access the switch connection for the hazard lights;


• Pull-off the connector for the hazard warning light switch as shown in the picture below:





• Lift the cover trim piece up and over the selector shaft....

You should now have the trim piece free of the selector shaft, and ready to replace with another piece, etc. Hope this helps!

Update: Porsche 991 C4S PCM 3.1 Removal

UPDATE to my previous posts on removal of the PCM head unit from my 2014 991 C4S.  I've captured a video of the process, and posted up to YouTube.  Makes a nice companion to the previous posts:

Porsche 991 911 PCM Removal Part 1

Porsche 991 911 PCM Removal Part 2

And here is a link to the video:

Thanks for watching!

Please check me out on Twitter @GTSilver991 and on Instagram at http://www.instagram.com/gtsilver991.

Porsche 991 C4S Third Brake Light Modification

991 DIY: Third Brake Light Modification

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I am always looking to "tinker" with my toys, and can't leave well enough alone! Hence the following DIY.

I completed the following project about a year ago, never had a chance to post this up, but recent questions by members PorscheCrazy and others reminded me. Maybe someone will find this useful...   If you'd like to see a video of the blinking upper brake light in action, jump to the bottom of this post for a link to my YouTube channel GTSilver....

This DIY covers modification to my upper third brake light wiring to alter the LED from a single constant "on" steady state to a blinking light when brakes are applied.

I actually got this idea from a member of a non-6Speedonline Porsche forum that is very popular. ;-)

I had always thought that having a blinking third brake light would be a great safety enhancement, and more so for smaller sports cars. SUV and mini-van drivers don't realize they just can't stop in the same short distance, this is for them or even those tailgaters and morons who love to ride up as close as possible to prove a point or something... 

Anyways, I found a small company that produces a controller that when tapped-into your brake light wiring modify from steady to blinking. The company is Kahtec Technologies International. www.kahtec.com This US company produces several products all focused on safety modifications for brake lighting. Someone recently mentioned that there are other products out there -- I do not have any knowledge of them or experience.

I went with the Kahtec "Intelligent" product, which when added claims to flash the third brake light 6 times rapidly when first hitting the brakes, then a steady 3 blinks every 6 seconds for as long you keep your foot on the pedal.

I ordered on the Kahtec web site, and in a couple of days the small box arrived as advertised. The box contained a small wired black box with Red, Black, Blue wires, set of wire taps, and instruction sheet.

The instructions are very clear, easy to read and I felt comfortable that tapping into my wiring would be reversible should I have to switch back. So I set off in search of the best location to grab the wires in my car ('14 C4S coupe). I originally went about pulling the third brake light entirely from the rear vent grill lid (see my other DIY DIY: 991 Upper Third Brake Light Removal but after doing so, decided that there just wasn't a good location back there to mount the Kahtec black box. Also, Kahtec states that the box is NOT weather proof.

So, I recalled locating the wiring harness for the third brake light and antennae bump back when I was wiring my car for the back-up camera. I went back into the interior, passenger side under the back window... I pulled the trim off, and right in front of me was the wiring bundle I needed! It was great not to have to dig and search for wires for once!!

Here's the bundle -- there are three wires. Black/Red, Brown/White, and a larger solid black cable. The cables run from the passenger side of the car up into a rubber grommet (upper right side of pic below), which leads into the trunklid area and up to the grill where the upper third brake light resides.

For reference - in the pic below, LEFT is the passenger-side rear corner under window, RIGHT is near the Sound Symposer opening under the center of the rear window.

You'll need to slit the wrapping-tape to separate the wires...

I quickly determined that BLK/RED is power (+) and the BRWN/WHT is ground (-). The solid black cable is for SAT/NAV antennae so I didn't mess with it (hmmm.... what project might I need THAT wire for???).

With the wires separated, the next few steps are easy to follow right from the Kahtec instructions included...

Get the Kahtec black box, and the three red plastic wire taps ready. (NOTE: I've since modified the wires further. I don't like using the clamp wire taps, so I went back and replaced with soldered bullet disconnects. Much more reliable, easy to disconnect if necessary, and will maintain a much "cleaner" connection. I'll post some new pics of the modification to the connectors when I get a chance.)

• Hold the BLK/RED wire, pull it into the red wire tap.
• Take the RED wire from the Kahtec black box and push it into the red wire clamp.
• Clamp down on the red tap until you hear it "snap" and use a pair of pliers to make sure you've pushed through both wires.

• Now take hold of the BLK/RED wire about an inch away from the tap you just installed, and push the wire into another red wire tap.
• Take the BLUE wire from the Kahtec black box and push the end into the red wire tap.
• Clamp down to complete the splice connection.
• Take the third red tap, and holding the BRWN/WHT wire push it into the tap.
• Take the BLACK wire from the Kahtec box and push it into the red tap and clamp down.

The last very important step? Make sure you follow the directions, and CUT the BLK/RED wire somewhere between the first and second red taps you just added in the steps above. Doing so now causes all power to run through the Kahtec black box to the upper third brake light. If you forget this last step, your brake light will continue to function as normal, without the blinking.

If for some reason you didn't get the wiring correct, you can disconnect the taps and re-try. Try to leave as much wire length as possible in case you need to restore to original state without the module. Also, when using clamp taps, it is possible that you didn't get a clean cut through both wires -- so if you are not getting the module to work, or you get any dash warnings about "third brake light not functioning" you can start your troubleshooting with the clamps.

If you take-on this project, please post your end results and experience here for all to share!

I have a video of the brake light blinking...  As well as the removal and setting everything back to "stock".  More on that later - but short story is I wanted to return the light to original factory before selling the car....  ;-)

Have fun!