Showing posts with label console trim removal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label console trim removal. Show all posts

Friday, June 10, 2016

Porsche 991 Interior Trim: Fuse Panel Trim Removal

UPDATE:  Adding pictures and some additional description of the parts and how they connect to the car...  Many thanks to Rennlist member RoWa for the additional material!

Trying to help-out a fellow 991 owner...  I was asked about how the footwell trim piece that surrounds the fuse panel attaches.  Apparently the owner has a loose trim piece and although can feel that there is a connection point loose, isn't sure how to repair.

Here is a parts diagram showing the parts:


In particular, we are focused on parts identified in this diagram as #'s 5, 6, 7, and 8.

Part #'s and descriptions  (always check your part #'s with your service dept or someplace online like SunCoast, as I've now seen couple of different #'s for the following):

(5) 991 555 101 01  Lining Fusebox (you need to add your color code for interior color, which for example in my case is black, or A75)

(6) 999 507 533 02 Clamp
(7) 999 507 533 01 Spring Clamp

(8)  991 555 622 02 Lid Lining Fusebox
Again, for each of the colored parts you will need to indicate your interior color code.  Additionally, in this case there are both Right and Left-side parts, so you'll also need to indicate /R  /L with part # as they don't have separate #'s.

Thanks to Rennlist member RoWa, we now know that in fact the trim panel surrounding the fuse box is secured to the car with a number of small tabs and velcro.  Per RoWa....
"The left side has fairly standard trim mounts. The right side is secured with 2 two-sided velcro-like fastners. One side of the velco fastner is mounted on the frame of the car, the other side, mounted on a circular plastic disc, is attached to the fuse panel trim. These discs, mounted on the fuse panel trim, are removable from it - they just pop off."
Following are some pics RoWa provides to help understand how the part attaches.  NOTE that in this case all parts are from the driver's-side footwell panel.  Referring to right vs left side of part means closer to door vs closer to footrest.  Assume on right-hand side of car the part is simply reversed.
Entire trim piece with door attached  viewed from behind, noting connection points on both sides.
Closer look at the "left-side" connectors w/velcro.

So in the case where the (5) trim lining the fusebox appears "loose" or has come-off, you'll want to focus on the connection points indicated above.


Monday, June 6, 2016

Porsche 991 Interior: Removing upper part of centre console cover ­PDK

Just a quick post to help a fellow 991-owner out...  I've previously posted DIY about removing (most) of the center console trim (for the purpose of removing the switch panel, as well as PCM head unit). What I didn't cover was how to remove the 991 PDK shift knob or the trim piece directly around the base of the PDK.

So, without further boring dialog, here goes...
  1. Remove the center console side trim pieces.  You don't need to remove the switch panel directly below the selector trim piece, but you should remove at least the side panels and console trim.  If you do remove the switch panel, it just gives you that much better access to the plug for the hazard light switch and leverage to pull up....  For details, see my other DIY post for center console trim at 2014 Porsche 991 Center Console Trim PanelRemoval

  2. Remove the PDK selector knob.

    • At the base of the PDK selector shaft, there is a locking ring -- turn that to the right. MacCarbon has a decent DIY for replacing the selector knob (with their CF version) and suggest you might need to put some blue masking tape on the ring to gain additional grip.  

    •  Push the knob button at the top forward and pull upwards, releasing it from the selector shaft....

  3. Remove the upper part of center console...  This is the trim around the selector "gate" which includes the model designation label and hazard / locking buttons.  Note that this is a single trim piece and will be lifted-off over the gear selector shaft.

    • Unclip cover by pulling it up ­in the direction of the arrows in this picture:


    • Lift up the cover at the front so that you can easily access the switch connection for the hazard lights;

    • Pull-off the connector for the hazard warning light switch as shown in the picture below:


    • Lift the cover trim piece up and over the selector shaft....
You should now have the trim piece free of the selector shaft, and ready to replace with another piece, etc. Hope this helps!

Monday, February 8, 2016

Porsche 991.1 Plastidip Removal from Mirrors



I've had the mirrors on my GT Silver 2014 991 C4S sprayed in Plastidip Matte Black for the past year or so.  Decided to remove the 'dip as I am preparing for other projects.  To remove the dip I wanted to remove the mirrors entirely from the doors.  Thought I'd show you the process of removing the mirrors from the doors.  Might be useful for anyone wanting to send their mirrors out for painting, or wrapping, as well as for those who might want to swap their mirrors for another set....

Couple of things to note....  I have the standard 991 mirrors.  I do NOT have the power folding, Sport Design, or "GT3" mirrors.  However, I believe in any case the procedure to remove the mirror from the door is the same -- remove trim, a single bolt, and pull the wiring harness through the door.

Also, when I bought the car, the dealer had already installed xPEL PPF, and there are small pieces on the mirrors.  When I sprayed with Plastidip, I just sprayed right over the film.  So, I really wasn't sure if the 'dip was going to bond or "merge" and stain the clear film.  But actually what I found is that the 'dip spray peeled-off more easily from where the film was than where it was not!  As you can see in the video I shot, the 'dip peels off real easily from the mirrors.  Each mirror took me about 30 minutes to peel and clean-up.  Where I had difficulty peeling, I simply brushed on some Xylene and wiped the 'dip off!  Very easy!

I continue to be impressed by the durability and versatility of Plastidip!  It is amazing stuff.  My car is no garage queen, so seeing first-hand how it protects the car I am a true believer!

Here's the video posted up on my YouTube Channel - GTSilver....  Please subscribe for more!



Monday, March 16, 2015

Porsche 991 911 Center Console Switch Box Deconstruction

Porsche 991 911 Center Console Switch Unit
Here's another one for all fellow "tinkerers" out there...  I have been thinking about how the 991 center console switches function, and what one might be able to do with the "blanks" that all of the 991 models seem to have (I have seen fewer blanks on a GT3, but nearly all other 991 models have at least 3 blanks in the console switch unit).

What follows is a step-by-step breakdown of the center console switch module from a 991.  In this particular case, the donor did not have PSE (Thanks for fellow member for donating!).

My thinking is this... that although the unit is a single controller, we should be able to figure-out how to modify the switches in order to do something with the blank spots, such as build-in custom switches for radar, other accessories that one might want to install.

The challenge in doing anything with this console module?  It is a single control board, with various switches mapped and likely programmed specific to the car and its' options (ie when you add PSE they replace the entire switch unit, not just add a single switch).

In the "old days" you could pull a single, isolated switch from the dash or console, and replace with something else, or at least gain direct access to specific wires and such going to the accessory buttons.  Nowadays, all of the switches are on a single circuit board, and tie-in to the car network (CAN) through a couple of wires and a connector.  So you really can't just move the switches around, remove something and replace with a different function, etc.  At least not yet...  LOL

Let's get to the deconstruction.

You need to remove the switch module from the center console, so if you haven't already you should review the DIY I posted previously on just how to do this.


So if you've followed the removal DIY, disconnected the cable running to the switch-box, you should be holding the 'black box' at this point.  Here is the module sitting on my bench...

This is the "underside" of the switch box.
Note the part #'s S/W and H/W versions
After you have the module on your bench, flip it over so you are looking at the "bottom."

There are 6 torx head screws that you need to remove, as indicated in the following picture.

The small screws removed....
Using the smallest T bit that I have I removed each one and set aside...  These are small, so if you have a tray or even a small plastic sandwich bag you should put them in a safe place.  Would hate to lose one of these buggers!

With the screws removed, gently pull-up on the the back-cover and put aside.  You'll find as you separate the back from the main assembly that there is a rubber gasket layer sandwiched in there (covering the circuit board) - you'll notice it in the area where my thumb is in the following pic.


Place the back cover aside.  In this picture, you can see what you've exposed is a single circuit board.


Now pull-up gently on the circuit board, separating it from the main assembly.  Do so carefully, as in the picture below you'll find that there is a spring in the center -- don't lose that!

Red arrow indicates a small spring in the center of the assembly.
Have something handy, like a small bowl or plastic bag, to put the small bits in.  Place the circuit board to the side.


Since the "top" of the switch box assembly is face-down on your table, you are now looking at the underside of the switch actuators....

I've indicated where the "blanks" are so you can see the difference
between those and the actual "live" switches from the console...
The first observation about this is that given the space under the dummy switch covers (effectively they are hollow) it is very possible that an aftermarket / custom switch assembly can be added.  More on that later.

Let's move over to the circuit board for a moment....


On one side you see the standard green board with some chips and other bits visible.  Flip it over and on the other side is a rubber gasket of sorts...  You can pull that off - there isn't anything holding it in place that you need to worry about.


The small metal discs correspond to the switch contact points, which in turn are mapped to the corresponding circuits for controlling specific features / functions of the car.  This is all via CAN-BUS and programming, so if you were expecting to be able to tap into specific wiring for a switch you are out of luck!  These are pressure sensitive contact points, and represent either an ON or OFF state....  The rubber gasket is effectively protecting the circuit board and contacts from any moisture, such as when someone might spill or drip beverages onto the center console.  Might make for some sticky buttons, but looks to me like there wouldn't be much chance for shorting or other electrical problems!

Back at the "rear" of the switch console box -- you can remove the three grey assemblies, taking care with the center one which has a spring.  The plastic bits literally just fall-out so nothing tricky needed for removal.


In the case of my car the switch buttons are to control the metal sunroof.  Open / Close / Partial settings and corresponding buttons.  If this were a cab car, I would expect these buttons to control the top open / close functions.  In a coupe with NO sunroof option?  Not sure what would be there. Probably just blanks.

To remove one of the buttons that are already in place, you will need to push it out from the rear.  I used a small micro-screwdriver and gently pushed until it popped-out a bit and I could pull it the rest of the way out.


Here's a pic of the switch face plate or cover removed...


The face plate is a small thin black plastic part with a small hole in the corner (for the red indicator light).  NOTE that the face plates are right - or - left side specific.  For example, the PSE button can only be installed to the right bank of buttons...


Once you have the switch face plate removed, you can remove the chrome plastic bit from the front of the console box.

In the following picture, you can see the "dummy" or blank button face removed, with the small chrome bit removed from the "real" button just above.


Here you can see the difference in a "dummy" button  (circled in red) and "real" or working button (upper space in the pic below) when the faces of the two buttons are removed.  In the functioning button, note there is a black "box" of sorts inserted, which when face is on and pressed contacts with the actual contact switch on the circuit board.


You can remove the black plastic "box" in a switch by gently pressing on it from the face side to push it out the back of the console box.  And do the reverse if you are inserting a new button....


Following is a pic showing the two buttons on the right that have been completely removed from the switch box.

And from the reverse side....


Pic of the various bits deconstructed and laid-out on the bench.


So, you've deconstructed your center console switch box...  What can we do with this information???

Well, I didn't do anything.  I simply put it all back together again.  But, I now know that if I really wanted to add a "custom" switch integrated to look factory installed I could.  It isn't going to be fully-integrated at an electronics communication level (CAN BUS), but a physical integration with the switch face plates.  To add a custom switch, you will have to create an access port into the space directly under the switch face plate you are customizing.  This means drilling a small hole on the side of the console box and routing your wiring through and into the space directly below the switch box.

Of course, until someone does this and shows in detail, it is just a concept.  Couple of other things to know -- You can purchase a switch repair kit from Porsche that includes replacement switch face plates, switch console box, and other bits.  I think this currently runs about US $225 or so.  Also, this kit is needed whenever an owner adds Porsche Sports Exhaust to their car, as the kit includes the new button to turn the PSE on and off.  Here is a pic of the kit (swiped this from an online marketplace):


Note also that the switch repair kit does require a match to your VIN -- in the example pic above, this kit was obviously for a car that is NOT a convertible, and doesn't include the metal or glass sunroof option, since there are no buttons for roof control in the middle of the switch panel.  So check your VIN when you order a switch repair kit.  And no, getting a kit with the additional buttons DOES NOT mean that by installing you will magically have PDCC, front lift kit, PSE, or a convertible!!!!  LOL.  These are replacement buttons and other parts, but you will need to get any programming done by the dealer (or independent with the PIWIS tool and the option codes for your car from the factory).

Anyways, this is a LONG post -- sorry all!  I've run out of steam.  Happy to answer any questions if you want to post them.  I also have a spare switch kit that I can dig into in more detail if you have any questions.

Thanks!

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

DIY - 2014 Porsche 991 911 Center Console Trim Removal

(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 02/06/2014)

I am pulling the control button panel from the center console on my '14 991 C4S as I am considering some hacks errr... I mean modifications.  

The first stage of the effort is to get a feeling for the complexity of the disassembly job by removing the trim and getting the button-box out. Never did this on a 991 (or any 911 for that matter!) and have no idea how difficult they make it for us. 

I don't have time now to go much further with the project, so I'll post this as -is for now. Anyone wanting to get into the center tunnel might find this useful. In a separate project I will crack-open the box and take a look at the guts....


Let's get started....  For this project, you should have a good set of plastic interior trim tools handy.  I had a set that I bought from Harbor Freight for like $10, plus some other tools that I've accumulated over time.

1. My 991 has full leather. The trim pieces are all covered in a black "leather" or material of some sort. Don't think it is leather, but it is a soft black covering matching the interior black leather.

2. Just below where the coin-tray or ashtray is located, you can work a soft tool under the edge and pry-up. Be very careful. The fabric pieces can be dimpled or marked as you apply leverage. I don't have a set of trim tools, so I improvised and used a plastic squeege tool I have from applying films.
3. Prying the end up a bit further to get the sides started....
4. And then working the tool around the length of the trim... The trim is fragile, and I was taking great care not to mark it or "dent". Later you'll see the long prongs that you need to work free to release the trim. Just work up each side to the top above the shift lever.
And
And
5. Gently pull the trim piece off and over the shifter.
6. Here is the trim piece fully removed. Note the long tension prongs around the sides. Don't want to break those off....  Put the piece somewhere safe.
7. Not the best pic, but note the gap around the button and shifter modules. There is a rubber gasket down in the space.
8. Gently pull the rubber gasket out -- in my case I simply pulled it up and back over the shifter but didn't fully remove.
9. With the gasket removed, you now have the sides of the button and shifter modules exposed a bit. These are just held in place by tension -- no screws or other tricks.
10. I started with the button module. It is in there very tight, so you need to be careful but pull on it enough to free the tension tabs -- there are 4 tabs, two on each side. I put a fiber cloth over the unit and pulled up on one side first to get it free. Then it popped-out suddenly!
And...
11. Pull the center unit out of the way, and you have now exposed all of the great space hidden underneath. The unit is a single "box" set for all of the buttons.
12. I pulled the small black "coin-tray" out (just held in place by a couple of tabs) of the way and you can see some of the great stuff inside. Like the white and chrome cylinder thingy -- a linkage to the PDK shifter. Bunch of other wires, but a lot less cluttered than I thought it would be!
13. Flipping the button-box over, you will find that there is a single, thin gang of 5 or so wires attaching the box to the car via a small white plastic connector. Easy enough to pull out! But also note on the underside is a sticker with several part numbers. I am guessing the part numbers correspond to the optional buttons that I have included in my build -- I do not have PSE, so I am thinking the numbers must be Sport Chrono, but not sure what else. I did a quick Google of the part number, but got nuthin'! Anyone have a part manual around??? Anyone know what the "DML" designation stands-for after each number?  (UPDATE:  My friends on 6SpeedOnline have informed me that the DML code is for the "Black interior" on my particular car.
The numbers at the bottom of the sticker may be the Software (SW) and Hardware (HW) rev numbers for the unit. There is also a date, 05/27/2013 which I am assuming is the date the unit came of the bench or configured for my install. My 991 build date was 06/2013, so that sounds right.

Anyways -- that is it for now. I don't have the time to pull the rest apart. I've posted another DIY project (PCM 3.1 removal) where the center console trim must be removed, and soon I will post a project where I take apart the actual console switch box assembly!


Hope this helps someone!