(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 02/06/2014)
I am pulling the control button panel from the center console on my '14 991 C4S as I am considering some hacks errr... I mean modifications.
The first stage of the effort is to get a feeling for the complexity of the disassembly job by removing the trim and getting the button-box out. Never did this on a 991 (or any 911 for that matter!) and have no idea how difficult they make it for us.
I don't have time now to go much further with the project, so I'll post this as -is for now. Anyone wanting to get into the center tunnel might find this useful. In a separate project I will crack-open the box and take a look at the guts....
Let's get started.... For this project, you should have a good set of plastic interior trim tools handy. I had a set that I bought from Harbor Freight for like $10, plus some other tools that I've accumulated over time.
1. My 991 has full leather. The trim pieces are all covered in a black "leather" or material of some sort. Don't think it is leather, but it is a soft black covering matching the interior black leather.
2. Just below where the coin-tray or ashtray is located, you can work a soft tool under the edge and pry-up. Be very careful. The fabric pieces can be dimpled or marked as you apply leverage. I don't have a set of trim tools, so I improvised and used a plastic squeege tool I have from applying films.
3. Prying the end up a bit further to get the sides started....
4. And then working the tool around the length of the trim... The trim is fragile, and I was taking great care not to mark it or "dent". Later you'll see the long prongs that you need to work free to release the trim. Just work up each side to the top above the shift lever.
And
And
5. Gently pull the trim piece off and over the shifter.
6. Here is the trim piece fully removed. Note the long tension prongs around the sides. Don't want to break those off.... Put the piece somewhere safe.
7. Not the best pic, but note the gap around the button and shifter modules. There is a rubber gasket down in the space.
8. Gently pull the rubber gasket out -- in my case I simply pulled it up and back over the shifter but didn't fully remove.
9. With the gasket removed, you now have the sides of the button and shifter modules exposed a bit. These are just held in place by tension -- no screws or other tricks.
10. I started with the button module. It is in there very tight, so you need to be careful but pull on it enough to free the tension tabs -- there are 4 tabs, two on each side. I put a fiber cloth over the unit and pulled up on one side first to get it free. Then it popped-out suddenly!
And...
11. Pull the center unit out of the way, and you have now exposed all of the great space hidden underneath. The unit is a single "box" set for all of the buttons.
12. I pulled the small black "coin-tray" out (just held in place by a couple of tabs) of the way and you can see some of the great stuff inside. Like the white and chrome cylinder thingy -- a linkage to the PDK shifter. Bunch of other wires, but a lot less cluttered than I thought it would be!
13. Flipping the button-box over, you will find that there is a single, thin gang of 5 or so wires attaching the box to the car via a small white plastic connector. Easy enough to pull out! But also note on the underside is a sticker with several part numbers. I am guessing the part numbers correspond to the optional buttons that I have included in my build -- I do not have PSE, so I am thinking the numbers must be Sport Chrono, but not sure what else. I did a quick Google of the part number, but got nuthin'! Anyone have a part manual around??? Anyone know what the "DML" designation stands-for after each number? (UPDATE: My friends on 6SpeedOnline have informed me that the DML code is for the "Black interior" on my particular car.
The numbers at the bottom of the sticker may be the Software (SW) and Hardware (HW) rev numbers for the unit. There is also a date, 05/27/2013 which I am assuming is the date the unit came of the bench or configured for my install. My 991 build date was 06/2013, so that sounds right.
Anyways -- that is it for now. I don't have the time to pull the rest apart. I've posted another DIY project (PCM 3.1 removal) where the center console trim must be removed, and soon I will post a project where I take apart the actual console switch box assembly!
Hope this helps someone!
(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 8/30/2014)
This is the second part DIY for removing the PCM 3.1 unit from the dash of a '14 991 C4S.
Visit Part 1 if you need to remove the right and left side trim pieces....
In previous steps, we've removed the two console trim pieces. Here I've indicated all of the female receptacles in the console that the trim piece connects-to:
In this pic I indicate the slot where the "hook-tab" connects - you don't want to break this one off (see further down for a pic of the tab)!
Here's a pic of the passenger side trim piece removed:
And in these shots I circled all the little tension tabs on the reverse side of each piece. There are a lot of them!
There is one tab that is really fragile, and it is more of a "hook" tab that has to clamp into its' connection point under the dash - here is a pic highlighting this tab... Also, note at the top there is a tab that simply insert straight-ahead into the console next to the PCM unit in the dash.
With the trim panels removed, you have now exposed the PCM unit screws to each side of the PCM unit. Indicated in this pic are the 4 T-25 screws that you need to remove from the PCM unit to get it out of the dash:
And here are close-ups of the right / left side screws (I also indicate the hole where one of the trim piece tabs inserts straight-forward)
Cover the area directly below the PCM unit, and move the gear selector back
Remove the screws...
Gently pull the unit out of the dash
When you have the unit out far enough to reach the cables in the rear of the unit, you will want to disconnect everything. Be CAREFUL how you remove the connectors -- if you pull too hard on the wires you can pull them out of the connector module! So gently work the connectors out.
Here are some pics of the rear of the PCM unit (I've circled the wire bundle that you want to focus-on for integrating something like the NAV-TV plug-and-play harness....)
If you are adding a different NAV-TV connector, like the RGB3.1 or the AV970 kits, you will have to remove the unit entirely so that you can put it on a bench and open the case. Unless you have to I would avoid breaking the warranty seals on the unit until after warranty period ends. You don't want any problems you have before then to be blamed on your modification!
Interestingly, I was expecting a large warning label about voiding warranty, but all I found was this little white label...
That's it for now! I don't have the NAV-TV unit yet to actually connect everything, but I will soon and will put together another DIY showing the process of making the connections, and wiring-up a camera from the rear.
To put everything back the way it was, simply reverse the steps above!
For previous steps, Go To Part 1.
(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 8/30/2014)
Objective of this DIY is to remove the PCM "head unit" and touch-screen from the dash of my 2014 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S.
Consider this a prep project for a Rear Video Camera install DIY (see other posts), as these are the steps you will need to follow to install an interface like the NAV-TV PCM3.1XG-CAM video source. Actually, you would need to follow these steps for just about ANY installation requiring interface with the PCM dash unit!
(If you want to simply skip to the end where there are pics of the rear of the PCM unit / wiring, Go To Part 2.)
The entire process of removing 2 trim pieces and screws holding the PCM unit in place took approx 30 minutes -- a lot less if you aren't stopping to take pictures! First time you remove the trim pieces go slow, take your time...
First, make sure you have the following tools ready:
- T-25 Torx
- Nylon / Plastic Interior Trim Tools
- Soft towel or other cloth (you will want to cover the console / shifter area when you pull the PCM head unit out of the dash)
NOTE: Although you'll notice my unit has power during the DIY, I would recommend that you disconnect battery / power so that you don't run into any electrical "issues" while pulling the unit out. Also make sure you are grounding occasionally to something metal, not just the PCM housing....
First, put your seats as far back as they'll go, put on some good tunes, and start to remove the trim panels on each side of the center tunnel. These pieces in my case are covered in leather, so I was very careful not to do anything to scratch them.
Also note that these pieces can also be tricky to remove. DON'T be too forceful and simply yank it off, as there are a couple of tabs/pins that can break-off. Once that happens I don't think there is much you can do to fix, and you may end-up with a squeaky center console or something!
Let's get started!
Here's a pic of the console area in my car. On my '14 C4S I've got leather surfaces and PDK. You may find it easier to pull the PCM unit out if you move the gear selector back, but you don't have to.... if you are very careful and have small hands!
Another pic of the area
Start at the smaller, pointed end near the center console storage bin, and carefully work the tension tabs out of each connection point moving towards the dash. Using the trim tools is a huge help. I found that wedging behind the trim and gently pushing out away from the console worked well, and for the last tab close to the dash putting the tool in from the bottom and pushing out while pulling towards me helped a lot!
I started on the left, or driver's side...
You need to be very careful not to just yank the panel straight-out away from console, as there is a hook-tab that is very easy to snap-off if you don't work it backwards out of it's retaining hole first....
And here I am pulling the right or passenger side trim off...
On the passenger side, you can lower the glove box door to give yourself a bit more wiggle-room to work the trim panel off...
Here are a pics of the trim piece removed from various angles (both sides)
You now have the two trim pieces off, and can move on to removing the PCM unit from the dash.
Go to Part 2
(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 9/26/2014)
WARNING: This is a long post, and lots of pictures -- so if you just want to see the end result go to Part 2!
DISCLAIMER: I am not suggesting that anyone should make this modification to their car(s). I tackled this project knowing my abilities and was comfortable taking the car "apart" and making modifications that involve the electrical and electronics systems, as well as drilling a hole in the rear bumper cover. I am also comfortable with the risks should anything "go wrong." I would highly recommend that if you are NOT as comfortable as I am in performing these actions or the risks involved that you seek out a professional installer. Worst case, consult your Service Advisor at the dealer for recommended installers.... Bottom line is that if you follow my DIY, you do so at your own risk, and you are assuming all risks and I will not be held responsible for any damage, errors or other problems you might encounter. I am not offering this as a service but purely as a review of my own project.
This is a comprehensive DIY that I've put together to keep the information consolidated. There are a couple of related threads out there, and some of the pictures below have appeared there previously.
Online discussion threads for reference:
The objective of this DIY project is to install a single aftermarket rear-view camera and the necessary interface harness to integrate with the factory PCM 3.1 head unit. There are other options which include two cameras, maybe other media inputs and so on -- This project will NOT cover more than the single rear camera input.
NOTE: It is required that you pull the PCM unit out of the dash to perform the installation, so unless you've already figured it out or done this before, you should also take a look at my PCM Removal DIY post for detailed instructions.
The "bench" in this project is my own 2014 991 C4S w/PDK. I did NOT have Park Assist or Multi-Function steering wheel options from the factory installed in this case. This is a significant point that will be highlighted later in the steps followed for programming the rear-view camera.
First, you will need to obtain the following products from NAV-TV:
- Interface Harness: PCM3.1 XG-CAM
- Rear Camera: CAM06
Here is what comes from NAV-TV in the XG-CAM kit...
I ordered both directly from NAV-TV - they offer great pricing for do-it-yourselfers like me! I had mine shipped 2nd day express, and all arrived timely and exactly as ordered. (Yes, I agree with others that the instructions received with the harness are just about useless for the DIY'er, and absolutely nothing comes with the CAM, but maybe now NAVTV can refer buyers to my DIY post!...) 
Have the following tools handy:
- T-25 bit
- Coat Hanger or similar wire-pulling tool (I also used a 34" zip-tie)
- Plastic / Nylon interior trim removal tools
- Couple of towels or microfiber rags to protect center console surfaces when pulling PCM out
- Small LED flashlight (a head-mounted one would be best - I didn't have one but wish I did)
- Electric Drill
- Hole cutting drill bit (you'll need something to get you to ~7/8" diameter)
- Dremel tool with various attachments for drilling and cutting plastics (I can recommend various bits if you need... just ask).
Let's get started!
Wiring-Up the NAV-TV Harness:
1. First, remove the PCM unit entirely from the dash. I won't re-hash all the steps to do this in this DIY - You should consult my 991 PCM 3.1Removal post for detailed instructions. Disconnect all of the wire connections in the rear of the unit. I found that you have to move the PDK lever out of the way (put in "D" position), and with the center console protected with microfiber towels carefully pull the PCM as far out as you can and tilt to one side entirely -- you will then be able to grab the wire connects on the rear side.
NOTE that they are nearly all click-in-place type connectors, so you will have to find a way to push down on the tiny little tab while pulling to remove each.
BE PATIENT! Some of the connections on my unit were downright stubborn and I had a tough time with my big fingers releasing the tabs!
There are 6 connection points you need to remove, as indicated by red arrows below:
2. Once you have the PCM removed, pull the factory wires as far out of the dash as you can. You may also want to carefully remove the factory tape wrapping the wires into bundles, so that it is easier to work with some of the individual wires. This will be important later when you need to push the wiring back into the dash cavity.
Following steps are included in the NAVTV instructions booklet -- but maybe my version will help a little more where they are vague....
3. Once you have the PCM unit out of the way, look at the factory 40-pin black plug, and locate the ORANGE fiber optic cables (2) and the factory GREEN connector. Pull them out of the factory plug. These 2 connectors must be reconnected into the NAV-TV plug-and-play harness for pass-thru.
4. Plug in the white, 8-pin connector from the Plug-and-Play Harness supplied by NAV-TV to the white 8-pin connector on the CAN Adapter Harness.
5. Connect the 18-pin black connector from the CAN Adapter Harness to the CAM module (black box).
You should now have the factory 40-pin connected to the NAV-TV 40-pin plug-and-play harness, which is in turn connected to the CAN Adapter harness, connected to the CAM module.... You're probably wondering why there are so many "extra" connectors and labeled wires on the CAN Adapter harness - you can ignore them. Other than a couple of wires mentioned later in this DIY, most are just not used in this single-camera installation.
6. Double-check all of your harness and module connections. Push the CAM module back into the dash opening and out of the way. I found a good space behind the drivers-side lower dash area... Don't hide it just yet, but make sure everything is accessible for when you re-install the PCM unit.
Take a break, stretch, and put the dash install aside for a bit.
Run Video/Power Cable:
This turned-out to be both the easiest and hardest part of the installation! I began with locating a suitable path through the rear of the car to a point just inside the passenger taillight cavity.
You may find other paths, and maybe your way will be easier, but this was in my opinion the most logical. No reason you couldn't run the cable down the driver's side and I believe it would be exactly the same. I had considered running the cable down the center of the car, but ultimately was trying to avoid pulling-up any carpeting or insulation, or having to remove more interior trim pieces than necessary!
1. Remove the rear passenger taillight (steps not included here -- I'll post separately...).
2. Remove the interior trim piece along the bottom of the rear window. Removing this trim piece is very simple -- just work your fingers behind the trim and tug. I found moving side-to-side and then pulling hard the piece just popped-off. Just take your time, pull more from center, and don't pull entirely from one end, or you may bend or break some of the tabs in other spots.
3. Shove your hand deep into the corner behind the side trim panels- if you push the lower trim piece back far enough, you will see two black plugs.
The plug I chose to use was the upper, smaller plug. It was a tiny bit easier to reach, and I felt was in a better spot overall to run the wires thru to the taillight cavity.
4. Push a hole through the hard black plug, giving enough room to get the small 2-pin molex and cabling through. You will need to use something pointy to push through this plug -- it is a hard rubber or plastic. You could also just push the entire plug out, but I wanted to keep some plug "integrity" so I used a pointy-end of a coat-hanger to push through, then wiggled enough to expand the hole. You could also use the Dremel or hand drill to do the same.... in hindsight this may have been easier, but I wasn't sure I could get my big hand and Dremel back there together. The pics make it appear as though the space is cavernous when in fact it is quite tight back there.
Here's a pic of the coat hanger coming through into the space directly behind the plug.
The arrows in the pic indicate the entry point on the left, and the destination hole (conveniently not plugged) on the right. This is the path we'll follow when running the cable.
5. Carefully push the camera-end molex of the video cable through the plug/hole from the interior side. Go outside the car to the taillight cavity. You will have to fish the wire out to the exit hole into the taillight area. Push a bunch of the video cable through the hole, and then use a coat hanger with
a "hook" on one end to grab the wire and pull through. Again, be careful not to damage the tiny molex connector on the end of the cable.
This pic shows the cable running from the plug to the taillight cavity entry point:
6. I pulled just enough of the video cable through into the taillight cavity to be sure there was enough slack to reach the camera connector, and tuck down inside the rear bumper cover.
7. Route the video cable: I started routing the video cable from the rear to the front. The path I chose was behind trim side panels, up and over the passenger door/window, and then down to the dash area. Most of the rubber weatherstripping pushes to one side easily. No PICS of this - sorry. 
8. When you reach the front of the passenger door frame, locate a suitable path to get the wire behind the dash. I found trim gaps at the side of the dash where I could easily push the cable behind the dash / carpeting in the passenger foot-well.
9. Run the cable all the way over to the PCM cavity in the dash, and pull out through this opening so that you can work on completing connections for video and power.
NOTE: In the following, I describe how I wired-up the power to the camera.... I did NOT follow the recommendations of NAV-TV. You may want to. They told me (I contacted them directly) to run power to the car battery through a relay. I didn't feel like going to that extent and figured I would try using the supplied power output from the NAV-TV harness. I did discuss my approach with Bob at NAV-TV support, and he told me that while my way would work, eventually the CAM module might "burn-up" and need to be replaced. Probably not warranty either..... I am not too concerned with this, but please consider your own comfort with the risk vs extra effort to wire to another power source.
10. Take a hold of the cable you just ran through the to the dash: There are two connectors at the end of the video cable - one being the RCA video that will be connected to the NAV-TV Plug-and-Play harness RCA, and the other being for power....
You will need to snip-off the two-pin white molex connector from the power line so that you can change the connector. The power line includes RED +12V and BLACK ground. With the molex gone, carefully slit the insulating sleeve and pull the red and black wires apart. Trim-off any insulation that is now hanging loose and discard.
11. Connect Video Source: Take the YELLOW RCA male video connector from the camera cabling and plug it into the BLACK RCA female plug coming from the NAV-TV 40-pin plug-and-play connector. Ignore any other RCA connectors. They would be used only if connecting other video sources.
12. Connect Power to the Camera: You will need to make a decision at this point : Either A) connect the power cable to the CAN Adapter harness directly, or connect to another power source, such as the battery or the fuse box. It was recommended by NAV-TV to connect the camera to a separate power source, even directly to the battery through a relay. I was planning on connecting my install to the passenger fuse box with a fuse-tap, but after some discussion on another thread I decided to try connecting the power cable directly to the NAV-TV Adapter harness. There is a power feed there, a white/red wire that is labeled as "OUTPUT 1".
13. Connect RED power wire to NAV-TV OUTPUT 1 labeled connection: To do this, you will need to modify the end of the power cable to the camera. Where you removed the molex, take the RED wire, and install a standard bullet pin connector (of the appropriate size - I think 16 or 18 gauge). I highly recommend you solder the connection between the RED power line and the bullet connector.
You will then be able to directly connect the camera red wire to the NAV-TV "OUTPUT 1" red/white wire. I then ran the black wire from camera to ground. I found a screw in the firewall area that was in bare metal, so I just loosened and connected my ground there....
Power connection:
Ground connection:
That's it for Part 1. Check out my Part 2 post for the final steps of the project, and some pictures of the installed camera in operation.
Thanks!
