DIY - Porsche 991 911 C4S Wheel Spacer Install (Part 2)

(Originally posted on 6speedonline.com 06/17/2014)

This is a continuation of the Part 1 installation of new Adaptec Speedware wheel spacers on my 2014 991 C4S.

With the two rear spacers installed, wheels and wheel-wells all clean and shiny, I moved to the front-end.

As mentioned in Part 1, I chose a setup that includes 15mm Rear spacers, and 7mm Front spacers. In this Part 2 post, I am installing the 7mm spacers to the front.

I removed the front passenger-side wheel. I had to hit the wheel a number of times with my rubber mallet to free the wheel. Made my case for using a tiny bit of anti-seize! 

Here's the wheel removed:

As in all cases, I got my wire brush out and removed as much of the rust and other build-up as possible, then cleaned with some brake-cleaner. I then applied a tiny amount of anti-seize to the hub, then pushed the spacer into place.

I used my rubber mallet to tap the spacer into place. All fit very snugly and well. I was happy!

Next I applied a tiny bit of anti-seize to the spacer plate facing, and mounted the clean wheel over the hanging pin. 

I tightened everything up by hand, then lowered the car. Moving over to the drivers side front, I performed the same procedures, mounted the plate and wheel, and lowered.

I immediately saw a noticeable difference in how the wheels/tires fill-out the wheel wells! More on that in a moment.

With the car on the ground entirely, I went from wheel to wheel around the car applying torque to each bolt -- 118 lb/ft. 

And we are done! Overall, with the wife away and the kids in bed, this was a simple, 5-beer project! 1 beer each wheel, 1 beer to celebrate finishing without damaging anything! lol

Unfortunately I did not do a great job taking before pictures to compare to, but here is what I have...

This is stock, "before" the drivers rear wheel spacer was installed:

And here is an "after" view of the same wheel well:

And here are some "After" shots of each wheel well around the car:

Passenger side rear:

Passenger side front:

Drivers side front:

And finally, following are some random shots of my car taken the day after completing the installation:

Overall I am very happy with how the wheels after the install.  But, not so happy with the large gap between the tire and wheel arch -- so next up is a set of lowering springs!

Thanks for reading! Hope others will find this useful. I will cross-post to the DIY section shortly.

DIY - Porsche 991 911 C4S Wheel Spacer Install (Part 1)

(Originally posted on 6Speedonline.com 06/17/2014)

Hi All- Following is a detailed DIY for installation of Adaptec wheel spacers on my '14 991 C4S. I've broken this into 2 parts, due to the number of pictures I'd like to include. 

Tools I Used:

• 2.5 ton Floor jack
• Wheel stops (2)
• 19mm Deep Socket
• 1/2 Ratchet
• 1/2 Torque Wrench
• Porsche Wheel Lock removal socket
• Rubber Mallet
• Wheel hanger pins (2)
• Wire Brush
• Brake Cleaner
• Lift-off Oil, Grease, Adhesive remover
• Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize

I know, this is a very simple project, and some would probably argue one that hardly warrants a detailed DIY. Leave it to me to make the simple things in life much more complex! 

Anyways, I ordered a set of wheel spacers from Adaptec Speedware (board sponsor) via Amazon at a great price. I have the stock PASM and wheels on my car -- I do not have PDCC or SPASM or factory spacers. So, stock ride-height with PASM (which for those curious to know is 10mm lower than non-S, non-Sport PASM 991s). I feel that the stock setup leaves a large gap around the wheel wells, especially in the wide-body rear quarters, and this project is really about the cosmetic improvement. I do plan on adding H&R springs in the near future, which will further enhance the look. That will be a separate DIY.

The package I chose for my C4S was 7mm Front and 15mm Rear spacers. Received the package in several days. Although the ad didn't state what was included in the purchase price, a set of extended wheel bolts was included in the package.  You must have extended bolt lengths when adding spacers....

Here's a picture of the package contents:

I didn't have the option with the order I placed to change the color to black, but in hindsight I should have at least requested black bolts.... More on that in a few. So I received the spacers and bolts in silver.

Here's the set, side view to show difference in thickness (F/R):

Overall the quality was good -- I noticed a few small burrs around the inside edge of the rears, but a quick shot with metal file smoothed it out easily.

So let's get started! I began with lifting the car ( I am doing one corner at a time -- you may want to set-up on jack stands and do all at once...) and removing the stock wheel bolts. I used my standard 19MM deep socket with 1/2 ratchet. I put blue tape around the socket to protect the wheel surface from scratching -- I did the same with the Porsche wheel lock socket that you'll need to retrieve from your toolbox.

Here's a quick comparison of the stock vs extended bolts. The length of your bolts will vary based on thickness of the spacer you've chosen.

Before removing the wheel, I got out my trusty hanging pins to make wheel removal and placement much easier and safer! 

Before I continue.... I mentioned earlier that the order I placed included silver spacers and bolts. I really should have ordered black powder-coat, as the OEM stock bolts are black, and I also intend to switch to black wheels in the near future. I looked at the silver on my car with the stock wheels, and didn't like. So, my quick fix was to PlastiDip the bolts in flat black. Yes, I painted myself! Here's a shot of the jig I used to hold the bolts in place while adding each coat (I did 5 coats total, with 20 min set time between each coat):

In the end, the PlastiDip coating will probably have to be replaced, but for now it works perfectly and is a lot cheaper than purchasing a new set of bolts!!!

So I get the wheel off... I'll post a set of pictures here that simply show for the curious what is "behind the wheel" on the rear of a 991 4S.

In this pic I highlighted a curved black plastic piece that is an air director to route cooler air to the brakes.

I also took the opportunity to do some wheel-well cleaning, as well as the brake calipers and other bits. I found that my car had picked-up a TON of small rock and pebbles from the crappy roads around my area, and there are a lot of spots where the rock bits just sit on top of flat surfaces and get caught in cracks, like this area just around the drivers-side muffler heatshielding, wheel well trim and rear apron panel:

With each wheel I removed, I thoroughly cleaned front face and rear tub. They weren't too bad, but there were many small tar bits stuck to the tub surface.... 
Before:

I used a grease, oil, adhesive and goo remover called Lift-Off to get rid of the tar bits and oil spots, before getting out the detailing products to shine everything-up! Lift-off works great, and very happy with the results! dav a bit on a cloth, place on the tar spot, and it literally dissolves - very little rubbing necessary.

After:

And final, cleaned wheel ready for mounting...

But let's get back to installing the spacers!!!

In the drivers side rear, I first cleaned the hub and mounting surface. I used combination of wire brush and brake cleaner to remove any rust or surface debri. Overall it was pretty clean, but I could definitely see that over time the areas where harsh NE winter salt and wet weather will continue to oxidize the surfaces it can reach.

I debated a short while over using anti-seize.... In the end I used my handy Permatex nickel anti-seize, putting just small dabs at various points on the surface. This will prevent the metal surfaces from sticking together in the future, and make it easier to remove the wheel, etc. I have experienced where a wheel would not budge from (previous car) the mounting without extreme pounding and things like liquid wrench, and I would like to avoid that from happening on my 991.

The first bit of anti-seize goes between new spacer and hub....

Placed the 15mm spacer on hub, pushed into place. Fit very snug, had to tap it lightly with my rubber mallet.

Once the spacer was set in place, I added a very small bit of anti-seize to the surface where the wheel will contact the spacer. I then put the hanger pins in place and we are ready to remount the wheel!

And here is a pic of the wheel installed in the rear. I've pointed-out how when viewing from above you can see the spacer. This will be of interest to those who have black or other color wheels. You may want to choose the black option for the spacers so the silver doesn't clash!

For additional details about installing the front 7mm spacers, and "After" pictures once I had all installed, visit Part 2 of the DIY: 991 C4S Wheel Spacer Install - Part 2

DIY - 2014 Porsche 991 911 Center Console Trim Removal

(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 02/06/2014)

I am pulling the control button panel from the center console on my '14 991 C4S as I am considering some hacks errr... I mean modifications.  

The first stage of the effort is to get a feeling for the complexity of the disassembly job by removing the trim and getting the button-box out. Never did this on a 991 (or any 911 for that matter!) and have no idea how difficult they make it for us. 

I don't have time now to go much further with the project, so I'll post this as -is for now. Anyone wanting to get into the center tunnel might find this useful. In a separate project I will crack-open the box and take a look at the guts....

Let's get started....  For this project, you should have a good set of plastic interior trim tools handy.  I had a set that I bought from Harbor Freight for like $10, plus some other tools that I've accumulated over time.

1. My 991 has full leather. The trim pieces are all covered in a black "leather" or material of some sort. Don't think it is leather, but it is a soft black covering matching the interior black leather.

2. Just below where the coin-tray or ashtray is located, you can work a soft tool under the edge and pry-up. Be very careful. The fabric pieces can be dimpled or marked as you apply leverage. I don't have a set of trim tools, so I improvised and used a plastic squeege tool I have from applying films.

3. Prying the end up a bit further to get the sides started....

4. And then working the tool around the length of the trim... The trim is fragile, and I was taking great care not to mark it or "dent". Later you'll see the long prongs that you need to work free to release the trim. Just work up each side to the top above the shift lever.

And

And

5. Gently pull the trim piece off and over the shifter.

6. Here is the trim piece fully removed. Note the long tension prongs around the sides. Don't want to break those off....  Put the piece somewhere safe.

7. Not the best pic, but note the gap around the button and shifter modules. There is a rubber gasket down in the space.

8. Gently pull the rubber gasket out -- in my case I simply pulled it up and back over the shifter but didn't fully remove.

9. With the gasket removed, you now have the sides of the button and shifter modules exposed a bit. These are just held in place by tension -- no screws or other tricks.

10. I started with the button module. It is in there very tight, so you need to be careful but pull on it enough to free the tension tabs -- there are 4 tabs, two on each side. I put a fiber cloth over the unit and pulled up on one side first to get it free. Then it popped-out suddenly!

And...

11. Pull the center unit out of the way, and you have now exposed all of the great space hidden underneath. The unit is a single "box" set for all of the buttons.

12. I pulled the small black "coin-tray" out (just held in place by a couple of tabs) of the way and you can see some of the great stuff inside. Like the white and chrome cylinder thingy -- a linkage to the PDK shifter. Bunch of other wires, but a lot less cluttered than I thought it would be!

13. Flipping the button-box over, you will find that there is a single, thin gang of 5 or so wires attaching the box to the car via a small white plastic connector. Easy enough to pull out! But also note on the underside is a sticker with several part numbers. I am guessing the part numbers correspond to the optional buttons that I have included in my build -- I do not have PSE, so I am thinking the numbers must be Sport Chrono, but not sure what else. I did a quick Google of the part number, but got nuthin'! Anyone have a part manual around??? Anyone know what the "DML" designation stands-for after each number?  (UPDATE:  My friends on 6SpeedOnline have informed me that the DML code is for the "Black interior" on my particular car.

The numbers at the bottom of the sticker may be the Software (SW) and Hardware (HW) rev numbers for the unit. There is also a date, 05/27/2013 which I am assuming is the date the unit came of the bench or configured for my install. My 991 build date was 06/2013, so that sounds right.

Anyways -- that is it for now. I don't have the time to pull the rest apart. I've posted another DIY project (PCM 3.1 removal) where the center console trim must be removed, and soon I will post a project where I take apart the actual console switch box assembly!

Hope this helps someone!

DIY - Porsche 991 911 PCM 3.1 Removal (Part 2)

(originally posted on 6speedonline.com 8/30/2014)

This is the second part DIY for removing the PCM 3.1 unit from the dash of a '14 991 C4S. 
Visit Part 1 if you need to remove the right and left side trim pieces....

In previous steps, we've removed the two console trim pieces. Here I've indicated all of the female receptacles in the console that the trim piece connects-to:

In this pic I indicate the slot where the "hook-tab" connects - you don't want to break this one off (see further down for a pic of the tab)!

Here's a pic of the passenger side trim piece removed:

And in these shots I circled all the little tension tabs on the reverse side of each piece. There are a lot of them!

There is one tab that is really fragile, and it is more of a "hook" tab that has to clamp into its' connection point under the dash - here is a pic highlighting this tab... Also, note at the top there is a tab that simply insert straight-ahead into the console next to the PCM unit in the dash.

With the trim panels removed, you have now exposed the PCM unit screws to each side of the PCM unit.  Indicated in this pic are the 4 T-25 screws that you need to remove from the PCM unit to get it out of the dash:

And here are close-ups of the right / left side screws (I also indicate the hole where one of the trim piece tabs inserts straight-forward)

Cover the area directly below the PCM unit, and move the gear selector back

Remove the screws...

Gently pull the unit out of the dash

When you have the unit out far enough to reach the cables in the rear of the unit, you will want to disconnect everything. Be CAREFUL how you remove the connectors -- if you pull too hard on the wires you can pull them out of the connector module! So gently work the connectors out. 

Here are some pics of the rear of the PCM unit (I've circled the wire bundle that you want to focus-on for integrating something like the NAV-TV plug-and-play harness....)

If you are adding a different NAV-TV connector, like the RGB3.1 or the AV970 kits, you will have to remove the unit entirely so that you can put it on a bench and open the case. Unless you have to I would avoid breaking the warranty seals on the unit until after warranty period ends. You don't want any problems you have before then to be blamed on your modification!

Interestingly, I was expecting a large warning label about voiding warranty, but all I found was this little white label...

That's it for now! I don't have the NAV-TV unit yet to actually connect everything, but I will soon and will put together another DIY showing the process of making the connections, and wiring-up a camera from the rear.
To put everything back the way it was, simply reverse the steps above! 

For previous steps, Go To Part 1.